This kit offers higher levels of rotor sound (whine) within the cabin due to the direct path through the firewall to the inlet. This is the first step.
This Kit requires that the firewall is drilled. Contents:
Fold the carpet down in the driver side footwell behind the brake pedal to the left of the steering column & secure by inserting a small screw as shown in the image through the carpet.
Pull the retaining clip off the carpet stud to enable the cutting of the insulation.
Cut the insulation along the horizontal line with supplied blade.
Tuck the insulation up and down behind itself
Use a center punch to mark the drilling point for the hole. Draw a line across from the steering column bracket point. Draw a second vertical line approximately ¼” from the raised sheet metal contour as shown the image.
To determine the exact point, you will be able to feel (using your fingers) and see the seam.
After using the center punch to mark the drill entry point, drill using the supplied hole saw at low speed and spraying windex or widow cleaner as lubrication to avoid (overheating) and damage to the drill bit. See video on drilling firewall.
Use protective cloth or paper towel taped to the firewall to catch the drill debris and filings produced during the drilling process. The windex will help contain the fillings around the hole.
Remove the inlet pipe from the throttle body to the air box first. Drill with supplied bit 1/8" above the seem in location marked in picture. Video explains how to drill the plastic intake for best results. Clean up the edges of the hole of any plastic burrs and blow out intake. Install the grommet and insert the greased hose short barb from the inside and push on the sound tube while hold the hose barb in place. The supplied grease will help getting these parts together. The sound tube should be pressed on tight to the hose barb and flush to inlet face so there is no movement. Use the zip to secure the end of the sound tube to hose barb for extra security. Install the other end of the sound tube through the firewall before reinstalling the inlet pipe to throttle body and airbox. This will give slack needed to install the firewall end.
Video explains more about drilling the plastic intake.
Image of inlet after drilling access hole.
Image of inlet with grommet installed
Install the supplied rubber grommet working into the hole. Apply some grease inside the groove to help it seat. From inside push the small straight hose barb through the grommet.
Apply some of the supplied grease inside the grommet and sound tube. Holding the hose barb from inside push the sound tube on and completly seat so the sound tube is flush to the inlet, and hose barb is fully seated inside against the grommet. There should be no play once installed. Use supplied zip tie on the end of the sound tube for extra security.
Video tips of installing hose barb and sound tube the on inlet.
Install the supplied rubber grommet working into the hole. Apply some grease on the bare metal edges for protection, and in the grommet groove to prevent corrosion.
Install the sound tube through the fire wall hole with grommet. With supplied grease apply some to the hose barb end and grommet. The GT500 strut tower brace and coolant tank require to use the fishing method described in video to your left to pull the sound tube through the firewall from inside. Video below explains the process of securing the hose barbed end through the firewall grommet and installing the diaphragm cap.
Image shows diaphragm cap installed, with zip tie securing the cap in place. The diaphragm cap is needed to keep airflow from from entering the inlet track which would create a MAF error from unmetered air entering the inlet.
Fold back the carpet insulation into its original position and use the supplied blade to trim the edge of the carpet to the diameter of the sound tube and cap end. Make sure the carpet or insulation doesn't block the front of the diaphragm cap or it will inhibit the transfer of whine.
This Image shows the position of whine mod installed.
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