This kit offers higher levels of rotor sound (whine) within the cabin due to the direct path from the inlet to the firewall.
Remove the inlet pipe with the MAF housing on open filter type intakes or remove box lid on closed system and drill a 1 ¼” (second to the last step on the bit) hole in the inlet pipe at the marked location. The hole is always drilled on the bottom of the inlet, the picture with the RED circle is a reference mark only, do not drill on the top of the inlet. Clean the edges of the hole with a razor knife and sand lightly. Install the rubber grommet and grease on the inside and on the 90 degree fitting and push into the grommet. This is very tight fit.
With your left arm you should be able to reach in with the straight hose barbed end of the sound tube and push through the hole cut into the steering wheel boot. Use grease on the end of the hose barb and on the boot hole itself to aid in installation.
The diaphragm must be used to seal off the sound tube from the inlet path. This ensures the MAF and calibration is not changed. Use supplied grease on the hose end and push the cap on the end of the sound tube fully seating the cap. You will need helper to hold the engine side of the sound tube to ensure it’s compressed together.
Warning: failure to install the diaphragm cap properly could result in unmetered air and poor running condition.
Use light grease on the end of the 90 hose barb and push the other end of the sound tube over the ribs completely seating the hose on the fitting. Use the extra zip tie to secure the sound tube against the shock tower and away from the header heat.