2005 2014 Stage 1&2 Whipple Roush Kenne Bell GT500 Open Filter and Airbox manual SKU 100 105 110 120 115 125 130 135 140 145 150 155 160 225 226 235 1000 1005 1010 1015

2005-2014 Roush / TVS / Kenne Bell / Whipple / Shelby GT500 Stage 1 & Stage 2 Sound Tube Installation

SKU 100/105/110/115/120/130/135/140/145/150/155/160 / 225/226/235 / 1000 / 1005/1010/1015

Sound Tube Kit for All Drivers Side Inlets

The Sound Tube Kit Contents

  1. Diaphragm cap (inlet pipe only)
  2. Sound Tube
  3. Small rubber grommet
  4. Small rubber grommet
  5. 1 3/8” step drill bit (inlet pipe only)
  6. 1” 90 degree hose barb fitting (inlet pipe only)
  7. Razor blade & Zip Tie
  8. 1 ¾” Hole saw where applicable (airbox only)
This kit offers higher levels of rotor sound (whine) within the cabin due to the direct path through the firewall and the larger ID.

Remove the rubber plug in the sound tube hole next to the brake booster or remove OEM sound tube. With the supplied drill bit enlarge the existing hole to the SECOND to last step of the drill bit to make a 1 1/4” hole. For 2005 to 2009 Models, they will have the A/C condenser in back of the shock tower which will need to be set aside before drilling, also they will not have an existing hole or plug because they never came with an OEM sound tube. Remove the bolt securing the A/C condenser and set it aside. No lines need to be disconnect for drilling. Drill hole in the same location by first using a center punch to start the hole then use provide drill and drill to 1 1/4” SECOND to the last step on the bit and follow procedure as outlined below.

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Clean and vacuum any metal filling from drilling and clean any burs from the drilled hole. With light grease pack the grommet groove slot and around the drilled hole to protect against corrosion. Insert the grommet and apply more grease to the inside of the grommet, push the sound tubes end with straight hose barb through the firewall. Sound Tube should be routed on the outside Canister Watch video

The Following section will describe connecting sound tube to various inlet pipes and Airbox setups. Find your setup and follow the steps provided Inlets 1-6.

Drill a hole at the bottom of the box in the location shown in the picture with the supplied 1 ¾” hole saw. The hole should drilled on the lower half of the box below the panel filter. Insert the 1 ¾” rubber grommet and use light grease in the other end of the sound tube and push through the rubber grommet about an inch into the box. Insert the 1 ¾” rubber grommet and use light grease in the other end of the sound tube and push through the rubber grommet about an inch into the box. The white line indicated on the image to the right, shows the path of the sound tube from the fire wall hole to the Kenne Bell inlet pipe hole needed to be drilled.

Drilling the inlet pipe in the location circled with the step drill to 1 1/4” ID size, the second to last step on the drill bit. Inlet pipe should be removed and filter and MAF removed before drilling pipe as not to get any fillings in the inlet path. MAF can also be wrapped inside with tin foil and left in place for drilling if needed. Air filter must be removed first and is accessed for removal from the drivers wheel well. Remove push pins in the front of the wheel well liner to get access to the filter for removal. Once drilled clean the edges with a razor or sand paper then install the smaller of the 2 grommets into the hole. Clean pipe as needed after

Install the diaphragm cap over the end of the sound tube hose barb that comes in through the firewall under. You will need a second hand to hold the sound tube on the other side while pushing the diaphragm cap onto the hose barb end coming through the firewall. Important the diaphragm cap keeps the sound tube completely sealed and ensures the inlet and MAF doesn’t leak unmetered air. WATCH VIDEO BELOW.

With the box removed you can see where the hole is to be drilled with the supplied 1 ¾” hole saw. It’s not mandatory to remove the box as the drilling can be done with the box in place but with the filter removed. Be careful when drilling, and be sure the coolant lines are out of the way. There is a large open area so it shouldn’t be a problem, just make sure your line or routing hasn’t changed before drilling. Insert the large grommet and tube with a little grease. The tube end can stick through into the box anywhere from 1 to 2 inches, or you can trim if desired. Image (above) Whipple sound tube installed in air box .The tube end can stick out into the airbox 1-2” and will not affect the sound transfer.

Sound Tube Routing to Firewall. Image showing the sound tube inserted through the grommet and fire wall hole.

Whipple air Box Sound Tube Routing

With provided step drill bit, drill out the inlet pipe to 1 ¼”. This is the second to the last step on the drill bit. The drilled holes edge should be no more than 1" from the edge of the pipe so that the filter can reinstalled. The red circle indicated the apex location of the hole to be drilled, but at the bottom of the inlet pipe 180 degrees from the red circle mark. installing the sound tube firewall end first, then layout the sound tube for best fitment and location to drill. Cleanup the inside of the drilled hole so it’s uniform and smooth. Install the grommet using supplied grease and then install the 90 degree 1” hose barb fitting. Attach the sound tube to the hose barb end of the JLT pipe.

stage 2 Direct inlet path intake with red circle indicated drilling location, but at the bottom 180 degrees from mark.

Drilling 1 ¼” hole in intake at the bottom

Small grommet completely seated in 1 ¼” hole

Install the diaphragm cap over the end of the sound tube hose barb that comes in through the firewall under. You will need a second hand to hold the sound tube on the other side while pushing the diaphragm cap onto the hose barb end coming through the firewall. Important the diaphragm cap keeps the sound tube completely sealed and ensures the inlet and MAF doesn’t leak unmetered air.

Step A Drilling The Inlet With supplied step drill locate on the opposite side of the MAF and mark 1” from the end of the inlet pipe lip and between the 2 holes on the mounting lip. Drill a 1 1/4” or 32mm hole with the step drill, the second to last step on the bit. Clean the edges with a razor or sand paper then install the smaller of the 2 grommets into the hole making sure it’s completely seated. IMAGE (RIGHT): Mark and drill 3/4” from the plastic seam edge and in the middle of the 2 ends.

IMAGE (RIGHT): Drill to second to last step on the step drill 1 ¼”.
IMAGE (RIGHT): Install the small grommet using some lube to help fully seat. IMAGE (RIGHT): After rubber Grommet is installed push the 1” hose barb into the grommet from the inside with some WD-40 to help seat and seal. Before the inlet elbow is installed push the sound tubes smaller end over the hose barb while holding the hose barb fitting from inside. Fully seat the sound tube so it’s completely compressed against the housing and grommet. Make sure the hose barb fitting on the inside doesn’t push in while installing. The hose barb flange on the inside should be compressed tight against the grommet. WD-40 will help in seating the sound tube to the hose barb. This step needs to be done before the curved plastic elbow is installed. Use the provided zip tie to tightly secure the end of the sound tube on the hose barb.

Reach up under the dash and push the cap into the end of the sound tube sticking through the inside of the firewall. The diaphragm cap must be used to seal off the sound tube from the inlet path, this ensures the MAF and calibration is not changed. Use supplied grease on the hose end and push the cap over the end of the sound tube. Do NOT push on the clear thin membrane, it must remain tight after install. Warning: failure to install the diaphragm cap properly could result in unmetered air and a lean condition. We appreciate your business and hope you enjoy the increased rotor whine. Visit us again to view the new products on offer at FosterSCMods.com

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